Handyman Sydney

Home Improvement, Home Repair And Home Renovation

Indicators on Getting Your Employees Ready For Their Heavy Vehicle Licence You Need To Know

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That puts an absolute premium on a company having actually a dedicated, professional team member behind the wheel of every business truck; ensuring that this highly important machine is skillfully dealt with. However if your business is looking to get the right individual into the chauffeur’s seat, the perfect prospect may currently be in front of your nose.

Human Resources specialists estimate it can cost upwards of twice a present worker’s salary to find and train a new employee or replacement, so it’s going to be advantageous to business’ bottom line as well as the general state of mind in the workplace or depot to upskill your existing personnel.

For businesses aiming to purchase a truck since your company has outgrown its utes, it may be worth considering Isuzu’s pre-bodied Ready to Work variety of light trucks, numerous of which are driveable on an automobile licence avoiding the requirement for licence training entirely. But if a heavy lorry licence is a must, keep reading.

5 Easy Facts About Getting Your Employees Ready For Their Heavy Vehicle Licence Described

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Because every state has various guidelines and regulations around getting a heavy automobile licence, it’s advantageous to do a quick online search and discover who’s eligible. This is crucial when offering younger employees a leg up in the industry. In Queensland, New South Wales and the ACT, chauffeurs just need to have held a motorist’s licence for a year prior to they can go for their Light Rigid (LR) truck licence, but in Tasmania and South Australia, drivers need to be a minimum of 19 years of ages before they go for the very same licence.

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Much of these websites likewise provide practical guides that help individuals get ready for their test. QLD: NSW: ACT: VIC: TAS: SA: WA: NT As you’re recognizing the ideal team member to achieve their heavy automobile licence, it’s also worth considering how your business can help them succeed. There’s some useful recommendations covering most heavy vehicle licence tests that will help put your worker at ease.

You can tell your worker that your trainer will most likely also be your assessor, there will be a video camera recording your licence test, the test will be at least 45 minutes long, and with many accredited fitness instructors the pass rate is over 95 percent. Some aspects of the test will appear familiar to automobile licence holders; there’s often a theory test, a drive evaluation and an abilities assessment, that includes cabin assessments and load restraint.

Everything about Getting Your Employees Ready For Their Heavy Vehicle Licence

Australia’s existing truckie lack indicates numerous courses are government subsidised. Although expenses differ, discovering to drive a heavy vehicle, especially from scratch, isn’t inexpensive. Per hour training can be upwards of $150 an hour, while evaluation charges vary around the $300 mark. Many organisations offer ‘severe novice’ courses, which take the chauffeur through from start to finish.

A number of these courses take location over a single day, often including the test itself, minimizing time off work for your personnel. The most crucial aspect of picking a training organisation is to be mindful that any course you or your worker obtains is totally recognized, with skilled trainers and a significant mix of both useful and theoretical lessons.

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How To Do Precision Drilling at Home

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The electric drill was probably one of the handiest items ever invented to help the do-it-yourself. But many handymen still have trouble with accurate 90 deg. or angle drilling and tricky jobs like drilling round stock or edge sanding. The fact is, few of us are gifted with the steady hands and precision judgement these jobs demand.

One way to drill dowel holes accurately is by fitting your drill to a drill stand, a large, lever operated attachment, which feeds the bit into the work accurately.

Another useful attachment is a portable drill guide, which fits a variety of electric drills, and does not tie you down to the work bench to use it.

A precision drill guide consists of a circular base cast in a material such as aluminium, with two vertical guides. These guides can slide beyond the base or they can be locked in place Depth and direction of drilling can also be controlled.

To attach a drill guide to your electric drill, you must first remove the chuck. Check with your owner’s manual for removing the chuck from your brand of drill.

Attaching the drill guide.

The guide usually includes an adaptor spindle to hold the attachment. The adaptor is fitted first then the guide is fitted on and secured in position, The most common jobs you would need the guide for would be 90 degree and angle drilling, drilling into round stock and edge drilling. By changing the bits on your drill, you can change the function of the tool to jobs like routing, sanding, shaping, hole sawing etc.

Drilling 90 deg. Angles.

Ensure the drill guide base is flush with the part to be drilled. To drill several holes all to precise depth, first rest the drill on a surface flush with the base, measure between the adapter and locking device on the drill guide and this will give you the depth to be drilled. The lock will control the depth of drilling each time. The same method can be used with a countersink bit in the drill. Test first on a scrap piece of timber.

Drilling holes.

Use a hole saw attachment in the drill guide for accurate hole drilling, say when fitting a new door lock. When cutting holes up to 21/4 inches diameter, use clamps for greater stability. On painted or fragile surfaces, stretch masking or electrical tape around the outer ring of the drill guide before starting work.

Drilling angles.

To drill several holes at precisely the same angles, extend the two guide rods beyond the base of the attachment. When drilling at an angle, the drill bit will tend to “walk” away from the point to be drilled. To overcome this, first drill a shallow pilot hole at 90 degrees or start an angled hole very slowly at first.

Edge drilling.

Useful for installing door locks, dowelling and stud drilling and other tricky edge work. Extend the drill guide’s two rods beyond the base and place the base flat on the edge of the part to be drilled, Tighten the guide rods against the sides of the part so the drill touches the edge of the part in the centre.

Drilling round stock is a similar procedure but you will need to use the depth stop on the attachment if drilling through a single wall of a pipe only. Small round work can be placed on a V-shaped support block for 90 deg drilling.

Work bench mounting.

With the guide mounted under the bench, the tool can then be used as a router or shaper, edge sander or hand held sander, with the use of various drill bits.
Materials you’ll need:

  • Drill owner’s manual
  • Safety glasses
  • Scrap timber
  • Masking or electrical tape
  • Fiat head bolts

Tools you’ll need:

  • Electric drill
  • Drill guide attachment
  • Drill bits
  • Straight edge

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Tool Maintenance What To Oil

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home renovation blog
Photo: ebay.com.au

Some of the areas around your home that need regular lubrication are hinges, door locks, garage doors, windows, sliding door tracks. Some electric motors and appliances and tools for home and workshop. Assemble a basic kit of lubricants so you can do these jobs regularly. The items you will need are light household oil, powdered graphite, an all-purpose spray lubricant and rust inhibitor, petroleum jelly, silicon spray, and sometimes-penetrating oil. If any of your appliances call for a specific lubricant, add that to your collection.

If hinges squeak, spray lightly with silicone spray. If the hinges are rusty, spray with a water repellent rust inhibitor, leave for an hour or so then clean off with a cloth.

Swing doors should be lubricated with a little graphite or grease once a year.

Tracks of sliding doors can be lubricated with graphite or petroleum jelly.

An easy way to oil a door lock is by oiling the key, inserting it into the lock and working it a few times. Avoid using too much oil or it will run onto the door. Latches should also be oiled to keep them working smoothly without having to be slammed shut.

Wooden sash windows and sliding metal windows all have a tendency to stick now and again. Thoroughly clean then spray with a suitable dry lubricant. Allow the spray to dry then move the sash and spray the area previously covered by the sash.

Many modern motors are permanently lubricated and should only be oiled on manufacturer’s instructions. Motors with oiling holes or points require a few drops of light household oil at these points about every 3 months.

Kitchen appliances are probably best oiled with a vegetable oil where they come into contact with food.

Drawers will work more smoothly if you rub the edges and tracks with soap, a wax candle or spray with silicon spray.

Penetrating oil is used to-loosen rusted or “frozen” nuts and bolts. Pour or spray on the affected part and leave for a minute or two then tap to assist the oil to penetrate. You should then be able to loosen the nut with a wrench or pliers.

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Expert Advice on Installing And Maintaining Gutters

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Photo : prestigegutters.com.au

Gutters are installed at the edges of roofs, and downpipes are connected to them to carry water from the roof, away from the house. If gutters are not installed or are defective, water collects around house foundations, washes away soil and plants and creates damp problems inside the house.

Gutters are made from a variety of materials such as galvanized metal, plastic, asbestos cement and aluminium.

The downpipes can be connected to underground drains, dry wells, or have splash pans built underneath to direct water away from the house.

For the do-it-yourself, guttering components are readily available in stock sizes. For example, plastic guttering and down piping comes in stock lengths of about 3 metres. Galvanized metal is sold in standard sizes such as 1800 and 240Omm or sections can be made to order. Check with your supplier. Ordering specific lengths will save having too many joins, which can later leak or cause problems. Before starting work, it is also a good idea to cheek with your local, council.

To work out the materials you require, and save waste, first make a rough sketch of the roof showing the existing guttering and down piping. This will show what lengths you need if having sections made to order, or how many stock size pieces to buy. Standard gutter sections should be joined with suitable connectors. Where the gutter turns you will need either an internal angle or an external angle.

End caps go over each end of the guttering. You will also need brackets to support the gutter, gutter outlets and elbows to connect the gutter to the downpipe.

Downpipes should be installed along the guttering at around 10m intervals, which means most houses have a downpipe at each corner. They are held to the wall by brackets, which are screwed into plugs in the wall (in case of brick or mortar) or into frame studs (in case of fibro or timber).

Downpipes should be held in place by at least two brackets. They are round or rectangular, in sizes to suit the pipe being.

Use a string line and level to obtain the correct pitch, so that the water will run in the right direction towards your downpipe. End caps on the guttering can be soldered on, or you can buy a suitable “end cap gutter section,” which is made to slide into the end of the gutter and held in place with rivets or self tapping screws and sealed with a silicon sealant.

A strainer should go into the top of each downpipe if you have trees around, where the leaves could block up the drain.

When you have all the components, lay them out on the ground to ensure you have everything you will need.

Next, establish the proper pitch for the gutter. It must be properly slanted to ensure water will run off. Decide which way you want the water to run and choose a high end and a low end. Then carry the gutter up to the fascia and push the high end up so it is against the tiles. Mark the fascia where the bottom of the gutter fails, remove the gutter and drive a nail into the mark. Attach a chalk line to the nail. Draw the line out along the length of the fascia. Using a line level, move the free end of the string until it is level then snap it against the fascia. Use the chalk line to establish the true level and pitch the gutter from this. ­The pitch should be between 12 and 25mm every 3m. Then fix gutter brackets to fascia approx- every metre. Starting with the end of the gutter farthest from the downpipe, apply caulking to an end cap and slip it into place.

Drill holes for the supports if necessary before raising the section. Attach it by installing supports every metre, following the chalk line. Since long sections can be awkward to handle, have a helper support the free end on a pole fitted with some kind of V-shaped cradle.

If sections have to be joined, caulk the connector before fitting it. Sections can be cut if needed with a fine-toothed hacksaw, filing the cut end smooth.

Fit supports to each side of the corner section.

If using downpipe connectors, simply slip an elbow piece over the drop outlet and slide the downpipe section into place. Install brackets near the top and bottom of the pipe to hold it securely against the wail. Attach elbow pieces to the bottom of the downpipe and add extensions as required to carry water away from the house. A length of plastic pipe can be connected to the downpipe and buried underground, leading to a dry well (a gravel filled pit) away from the house, or you can pour a concrete splashback under the elbow.

Materials you’ll need:

  • Gutter sections
  • Slip connectors
  • External or internal angles
  • Elbows
  • Downpipe sections
  • Drop outlets
  • Strainers
  • End caps
  • Hangers or supports
  • Caulking
  • Chalk and line
  • Sealer
  • Plastic piping
  • Concrete mix
  • Wall plugs
  • Self-tapping screws

Tools you’ll need:

  • Level
  • Hammer
  • Tin snips
  • Fine-toothed hacksaw
  • File

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